FIRST LIGHT

• Published date: 18 April 2024
• Publication title: Guardian, The

In the fresh embrace of the morning calm, with wispy fingers of mist fondling at the tucks and folds of the coastline, the sun popped its head up in classic yolky glory. The region’s brag-power as playing host to the first light of day certainly makes the spectacle all the more spiritual

As we gazed across the ravishing seascape, Young Nick’s Head and Mahia Peninsula loomed large on the horizon, while directly beneath us, the photogenic allure of Wainui Beach and Okitu Bush casts us under its spell.

It’s immediately self-evident why a beach house at Wainui is the epitome of aspirational real estate. No wonder the sun wants to be the first to see it.

After taking in the celebrated sky show from Makorori, in just 10 minutes, we tootled storied cradle of history. The Cook Landing Site, next to the port stacked with logs, marks the spot of James Cook’s first landing in New Zealand in 1769. The national historic site was given a makeover in the lead-up to the 250th anniversary in 2019, and a deeper cultural narrative, given it’s also a significant landing place for Ngāti Porou.

Puhi Kai Iti /Cook Landing Site National Historic Reserve now plays host to not just the 120-year-old granite obelisk in honour of Cook, but a sequence of sculptural installations that were designed by local artist Nick Tupara.

Cradling the site are the circular walls featuring the largest tukutuku panels in the world. The installation comprises 112 steel tukutuku panels, woven with more than 7km of cord. The most poignant addition to the site are the nine pou, in memory of the men tragically shot in that ill-fated encounter with Endeavour crew.

What a pity that the Tahitian priest and translator, Tupaia, hadn’t gone ashore from the Endeavour to avert any misunderstandings. Be sure to savour the historic site by both day and night, when it’s artfully illuminated, as is the enormous circular sculpture in honour of Te Maro, erected on Kaiti Hill, overlooking the landing site.

For a complete change of scenery, treat yourself to a knockout cinema with a difference in Gisborne — Dome Cinema. Some 18 years ago, Sally Shanks repurposed what was originally a gentleman’s billiards...